|
looking upward |
We started the day with a short
tram ride to a neighborhood cathedral for Sunday Mass. The church had a beautiful interior, and we intrigued
by the display of rosaries hung around two paintings of Mary. A clanging bell started the prayers, which
were entirely in Polish. Much of the
hour-long service consisted of a sermon, hymns sung by the congregants, and
communion. On the side was an area for
the kids to play, and so their laughter was juxtaposed by the somber voice of
the priest.
|
sublime arts |
For those who find transcendence
through the arts, Sunday also provided an opportunity with a noon time Chopin
piano recital in a nearby park. The
turn-out was a lot larger and younger than at the church. Before the concert started, LeeAnn taught us
about Chopin’s life. We were
particularly interested in figuring out how, after Chopin’s death in Paris, his
sister extracted his heart in order to smuggle it into Poland where it
currently resides in the Holy Cross Church in Warsaw.
|
looking down |
Hopping on a tram, we went to the
northern side of town for a quick lunch and a visit to the Nozyk Synagogue, the
only Warsaw synagogue to survive World War II (partly because the Germans used
it as a horse stable). It was built in 1902
by a successful merchant named Zalman Nozyk who felt that none of the 400
synagogues then present in the city fit his needs: most were small rooms in
houses and businesses and the one big synagogue was affiliated with Progressive
Judaism. Nozyk wanted a free-standing
Orthodox synagogue (in such synagogues, men and women sit separately during
prayer). Nozyk hired the architect of the Warsaw
Philharmonic Hall to design his synagogue, so the result was quite pretty. Within a few years he donated his synagogue
to the Warsaw Jewish community with the proviso that it keep his name and
|
looking inside |
always include prayers on his family’s behalf.
We toured the upstairs gallery that is reserved for women attendees (men
are on the first floor). In the large
adjoining room there were several new miniature period houses, intricately
furnished. Those of us who find a state of grace in
dollhouses were fulfilled.
|
under our feet on the sidewalks |
Others with a more scholarly bent
were stimulated by Kasia Gucio, an English translator who joined us at the
synagogue. Kasia has attended each of
CSUN’s trips to Poland as a guide for the Jewish memorial sites and past
culture. She told us about her work
translating Polish documents saved in the Ringelblum Archive. The historian Emanuel Ringelblum encouraged
Warsaw Ghetto Jews to write their stories, poetry, history, etc. All these were stored in metal milk cans and
boxes before the Ghetto was destroyed, and the Jews buried the containers to
preserve their lives and culture for future generations. The last milk can is believed to be buried in
the spot where later the Chinese Embassy was built!
After our tour of the synagogue,
our group dispersed for free time and eating. The biggest fan of Polish food among our group is Shant. His description of a new kind of Polish street food, shawarma, demonstrates his deep reverence for the food:
|
awe and wonder |
"Kabob stands are like taco stands in southern California. These kebab stands are primarily operated by Poles, Turks, or Egyptians. The latter two groups are Muslims who came to Poland during the post-1989 era (but not under the current Polish government, which is not permitting much immigration). Each stand has its own personality along with different types of home-made spice mixes and sauces to complement the dishes. Every time I stopped at one for food, it felt like the first time. Shawarma is the absolute
best of the food at kebab stands. There is nothing quite like walking
down a street while burying your face in a massive lamb shawarma. Poland is a gorgeous country and exploring it with
phenomenal authentic street food is truly a vital part of the whole European experience. Clearly,
Poles love this food. Judging from the many
Polish customers at these kebab stands, we are in a new era of multicultural
Poland cuisine."
As you can see, so far our experiences on this trip have given us much food for thought and reflection. Plus, we are having a great time!
|
in Old Town Warsaw |
No comments:
Post a Comment